British Administration in Garhwal -169
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History of British Rule/Administration over Kumaun and Garhwal (1815-1947) -189
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History of Uttarakhand (Garhwal, Kumaon and Haridwar) -1021
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Garhwal witnessed 180 degree changes in dress culture after British entering in Garhwal as happened all over India.
However, the dress culture was same for many years as was in Garhwal Kingdom. Men used to put Langot, gati and pagri. Gati was nothing but hemp or woolen sheet. Gati was nothing but a Labada. After putting on Gati on shoulder, the hands and feet were free for working. A waist rob was put on waistline. On north Garhwal, Garhwalis used to put on woolen salwar, woolen Mirjayi and woolen round cap.
A western writer wrote (Williamson) that in western Garhwal, people used to put just woolen blanket. Men just tie the blanket by waist rob. Many men used to put Rebdar payjama. Men used to put a sharp woolen cap. There were on two types of dress colors- black or grey and brown. The difference between woman dress and man dress was that sometimes, women used to pur scarf on their head. Metal ornament was another difference between two gender dresses.
In South Garhwal (Salan), women used to put cotton Ghaghra , Gajniya or Angru. Salanis used to grow dwarf cotton. Koli used to weave cotton. Women used to put only cotton sheet (chadar) and nothing more than that. Hill side people used to put woolen sheet. Properous men used to put Gajniya (woolen). Chhildren used to put cloth by chinthde.
The Maularam paintings put light on dresses by elites of Shrinagar. The state employees used to put woolen or cotton Chuddar payjama, labada /jama and turban. Waist robe was must. Sword was tied by waist robe. Shoes were put rarely. The culture pf shes came after Salim Shah entry into Shrinagar. Highly prosperous men used to put shoes.
Ornaments in British Garhwal
Men and women used to put ornaments of gold, silver, brass, iron or herbs too. Women used to put specific ornaments on head, ear, neck, waist, nose, lower hand, upper hand, ankle, fingers. Poor people used to put herbal ornaments. The girls nose was poured in childhood for nasal ornaments.Nasal ornamnets would have come to Garhwal after Suleman Sikoh only.
Men used to put ear, lower hand and ankle ornaments –Murkhi, Dhagula , Dhagul . Children used to put Khgoli (neck lase0 too.
Elite Brahmin women used to put Chandan teeka on head. There was no custom of putting sindur on head by women. Ornamnets and dresses were symbol of prosperity and position too. People used to pledge ornaments for taking loan from money launderer.
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References
1-Shiv Prasad Dabral ‘Charan’, Uttarakhand ka Itihas, Part -7 Garhwal par British -Shasan, part -1, page- 343-456
2- Atkinson , Himalayn Districts Vol.3
3- Wiliamson, Memoir of Dehradun page 42
Copyright@ Bhishma Kukreti Mumbai, India,bjkukreti@gmail.com 30/ 8/201710History of Garhwal – Kumaon-Haridwar (Uttarakhand, India) to be continued… Part -1022
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*** History of British Rule/Administration over British Garhwal (Pauri, Rudraprayag, and Chamoli1815-1947) to be continued in next chapter
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(The History of Garhwal, Kumaon, Haridwar write up is aimed for general readers)
History of British Garhwal, History of Devalgarh Garhwal; History of Badhan Garhwal; History of Barasyun Garhwal; History of Chandpur Garhwal; History of Chaundkot Garhwal; History of Gangasalan Garhwal; History of Mallasalan Garhwal; History ofTallasaln Garhwal; History of Dashauli Garhwal; History of Nagpur Garhwal;Dresses in British Garhwal.
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